My rat is grinding its teeth and its eyes are "popping out" of its head - what are they doing/what does it mean?
What they are doing is called "bruxing" and "boggling." Bruxing has many purposes. The most common purpose is the grind their teeth down. They may do this freely in their cage while nobody is interacting with them. Alternatively, if you are petting them and they do this, it is much like a cats purr - they're happy! Bruxing CAN be a sign of discomfort and pain, or even fear, so it's good to learn about rat body language so you can distinguish. Normally, however, it is happiness or self-dental work!
How long do rats live for, on average? Is there any way they can live longer? How long do YOUR rats live?
The average life expectancy of a domesticated Rattus norvegicus is 2 - 3 years. 2 seems to be more average than 3, however it is possible they will live longer. A good breeder is always aiming toward increasing longevity or at the very least, not breeding rats with known hereditary issues. Being mindful of husbandry and diet is another good way to keep them alive longer; do not overfeed, do not expose them to too much sunlight, and avoid carcinogenic foods.
The life expectancy of MY rats varies by line. Not a single line of mine is averaging less than 2 years. That does not mean I've lost any prior to 2 years, anything is possible, but statistically the majority are making it between 2 - 2.5 years. To save space I won't detail each line here, but am happy to answer any questions surrounding this topic.
How big of a cage do they need? What are "cage must-haves"
The pet standard for rats is 2 - 2.5 square feet of space. Lab standard is 1 sq ft for the first rat, .5 sq ft every rat after that. I operate in between the two - people hear "lab" and automatically think of abuse, but realistically labs need their subjects to be in a good mental state of health. This means that they're hyper aware of space requirements as well as other enrichment etc and will alter things accordingly to accommodate their subjects. I recommend to follow pet standard over lab standard. The "best" cage out there for pet owners is undoubtedly a Midwest Critter Nation (single or double unit) though they're pricey and take a lot of elbow grease to clean the corners. They also require you to purchase scatterguards separate. Anything within 1.5 - 2.5 sq ft per rat range and with .5" or LESS bar spacing is adequate.
What foods are safe and which are no-nos?
The list of unsafe foods is very short, in reality, compared to other species of animals. Rats CAN have chocolate and onions and grapes, though chocolate is best when high % cacao (contains theobromine and theophylline which are bronchiodilators), onions need to be cooked and grapes must be seedless. I have a comprehensive list available on my website, click HERE to view it! Citrus is noted to be BAD for male rats especially however that study was SKEWED and I'd be happy to discuss it. I do recommend avoiding feeding citrus in excess to any rat. Once in a while will not harm them, however.
What should I feed my rat besides his rat food? Which food(s) are best to feed?
I have a webpage detailing staple diet choices and recommendations (always Oxbow Regal Rat for any age, when available), though I have many ask about supplementing vegetables etc. Beyond their staple diet (which should be offered freely within reason, as long as they're a healthy weight) it's acceptable to give them dark leafy greens, some healthy fatty fruits like avocado and even sugary ones occasionally. I feed dark leafy greens (kale, spinach) 2 - 3x weekly, other vegetables (carrots, broccoli, bell pepper) no more than 3x weekly, fatty foods like avocado 1 - 2x per week but moreso for my lactating does, proteins (chicken, tuna, egg) 1 - 2x per week. There is no hard and fast formula for amount or how often, some rats will like some things and others will not... Some rats will become overweight when supplemented with things other than their staple diet... It's a game of give and take. You'll find what works best for you! The only rules are avoid excessive sugary fruits, foods and beverages! Your rat does not NEED to share your food, just because they CAN!! Also note that certain veggies in excess will cause gas/loose poops! My page detailing diet has different x per week for everything and the reason for that is entirely because I alter what I'm doing to fit the rats and my schedule! They get leftovers when possible, but sometimes I do stock my fridge/freezer just for them.
Males or females? Why?
Perhaps the most commonly asked question by new owners. Males or females. I can answer that using blanket statements but in reality, it's up to you. There are pros and cons to each gender but the majority of it is going to be personal opinion and it's SO important to note that rats are HIGHLY intelligent and individual, so they will not always fit into the neat little boxes we want to shove them into.
OVERALL - males are more calm and cuddly. They do mark a bit more than females, loosing droplets as they walk. Normally on you,their human, or items they like a lot - it's literally marking something as theirs. Take it as a compliment, but still wash your hands! Post puberty (6 - 8 months) they're more likely to develop hormonal aggression. Basically their hormones rush in like they do for everyone at some point, but rats take their angst out on cagemates primarily and sometimes their people. Neutering can help this sometimes but it's most important to adopt from a responsible breeder who aims to breed the least hormonal rats possible.
Females tend to be busier throughout their lifetime, with more "go" they tend to learn tricks a bit better. They don't tend to mark as much, and the don't have testicles which many view as a bonus - rat testicles are pretty sizeable, to say the least. Females tend to be less likely to have aggression issues though it's still very possible. They also tend to snuggle less. It depends what you want in a companion... and keeping in mind, getting a female doesn't guarantee a lively buddy and getting a male doesn't guarantee a squishy napping snuggler!
Spaying? Neutering? How much will it cost me and what are the benefits?
Yes yes yes and yes. Spaying/neutering a rat is NOT cheap - I'll be upfront about that - but there's a good reason. There's also many good reasons to do it! However it isn't necessary and you won't be faulted as an owner if you do not choose to alter your pets. Spaying greatly decreases the chance of mammary tumours in does. Neutering greatly reduces the likelihood of hormonal/post pubescent aggression in males. These reasons alone make it worth it to me, if you can afford it.
Neuters and spays on rats are as pricey/pricier than that of a dogs in most cases. People think, that's ridiculous! It's so small! But that's the reason - the procedure itself is identical in the physical organ removal aspect however everything is microscopic. The margin for error is next to non-existent and the realities of post surgery complication make it so that every single move the vet makes is critical to the procedures success. The anesthetic necessary is equal to a larger animal in relativity, but it isn't always possible for them to anesthetize a rat in a traditional way. I've seen gas masks placed over an entire rat as there was no other option. They may give them a little and then give them a little more here and there. Then of course, after care - typically in my experience, they prescribe metacam for pain management. Rats heal extremely swiftly and recover very quickly! All of this being said, I have called around to VI and mainland vets and have found that the price range on a neuter including pre-surgical exam and care, and after care, runs from $150 - $250 per rat. Multiple rats combine visitation fees etc. Spays would be more pricey on average from what I have seen online however I've not made calls myself. I am happy to call around to clinics in a persons area to help them find the most suitable choice for them, if they'd like to go the spay/neuter route!
Do rats have any "common" health ailments that I should watch out for? How can I prevent them?
Yes, sadly, they do. Every single rat (except for some strains of lab rat) are born with something called Mycoplasma pulmonis, or "myco." I highly recommend reading over this link HERE to learn about myco! If husbandry isn't up to parr, or the rat has a naturally weak immune system, myco flares may be a sad reality. Excessive sneezing, or porphyrin staining are signs of early myco flares. Rats should never make congested noises, have rattly lungs or wet sneeze. Respiratory infections are not uncommon and sometimes don't have a simple reason behind them, so I do recommend having a vet handy and having some antibiotics and other first aid supplies on hand. I have a webpage detailing what a first aid kit should contain.
Another common issue with rats is tumours. Does especially are prone to mammary tumours. Some rats get abscesses which can be mistaken for tumours. Abscesses are soft and can be manipulated. Use a warm compress to draw it to a head and allow them to drain. Broad spectrum antibiotics are useful for these. Tumours are hard and tough to move on the body. Some tumours can be soft, but more often than not they are firm. In does they often turn up in the armpit, or lower abdomen/rear leg. Other tumour locations are behind the ear/side of the face (zymbals gland tumour/ZGT). Tumours can be maintained with topical/oral CBD however this recommendation is based on personal experience and should in no way replace the advice of a licensed veterinarian.
Prevention is easy with respiratory issues, though some rats are prone to them and you can't do anything but be prepared. Some things you can do to avoid respiratory issues are:
1. Use NO scented cleaners - white vinegar to disinfect the cage, unscented baby detergent or even better yet white vinegar to wash hammocks etc.
2. NO additional environmental fragrances - no perfume, Scentsy, incense, oil diffusers, candles, cage sprays. Nothing! Their noses are incredibly sensitive.
3. Keep the cage clean. Seriously. Dump all the bedding and scrub at least once a week. Spot clean poops, or litter train (as best as you can). If you can smell them it's already too strong for them.
4. Use appropriate bedding. If using fleece or material which I do NOT recommend, change it every 2 days at LEAST. If you can't shove your nose against it without being grossed out/smelling ammonia, it NEEDS to be changed. Their sense of smell is exponentially stronger than ours, and they have no choice but to live right up against it. I recommend wood shavings, aspen or pine, and deal with a bit of it kicked out. Get a vacuum. Rats health > your desire for a clean cage area. Paper beddings suck for neutralizing ammonia. Make sure the bedding regardless of what it is has NO baking soda, NO additives and LOW to NO dust.
5. Avoid material and wood items. If using material hammocks change them out very very very very frequently. Ammonia likes to exist indefinitely in fleece even when washed. Urine seeps into wood and is incredibly difficult to clean/sanitize. The odours tend to stay... Forever.
My rats teeth are orange? What the-?
This is... Normal. Healthy rat teeth are a dark yellow-orange colour. If your rats teeth are white, that's bad! White rat teeth are weak rat teeth, signaling that they're lacking something in their diet. If their teeth are white please let the breeder know and take them to a vet!
Do rats wag their tails when they're happy?
If a rat is wagging its tail, the reason is going to depend on the situation. Tail wagging when they're relaxed, being pet, eyes half closed, coat smooth and ears smoothed down/relaxed, means they're happy. Definitely! This is not a normal thing for rats to do so it isn't bad if they don't wag their tail. They're still happy! However during rat-rat interactions tail wagging can mean aggression. If their coat is poofed, theyre bruxing and tail wagging and/or crab walking, it is definitely aggression.
When I touch my female rat, she tenses her body and vibrates. Is she having a seizure?
Not a seizure and very normal. This is a sign of estrus in does. When stimulated (touched, stroked, poked depending on the doe) they will tense and arch their back to expose their lady parts for the (supposed) male. They vibrate their ears and sometimes wiggle their whole heads, and often dash short distances in this position. Very comical! It will be over in 24 hours or so, but does go into estrus every 4 to 5 days. They do go through menopause normally around/after 18 months or so. Rats do not bleed vaginally during heats like many mammals do.
Is this blood around my rats eyes/nose, and staining his fur?!
While of course possible, it is highly unlikely. Rats have red-tinged secretions meaning that their nasal passages, tear ducts and saliva glands naturally produce something that looks a little bit like blood. It is called porphyrin. It can mean nothing or it can mean the beginning of a myco flare/other illness. But don't be alarmed! Just monitor them for any other clinical signs of illness.
Does my rat need things to chew on?
Short answer, kind of. Long answer - yes and no. Rats naturally chew things so it's a great idea to have safe chews available for them at all times simply because it's an enrichment item. But do they need them? Normally no. Rats brux to keep their teeth in check. This is important and necessary because rats have open-root teeth, which means their teeth grow throughout their lifetime. With bruxing, they should be fine! But some rats suffer from malocclusion. Be it hereditary, fluke or injury/situational, some rats teeth will grow and grow and grow... They can even grow into their own skulls. Very painful and at that point it's euthanasia, so it's important to watch especially as they reach senior-hood (18+ months).
How much out time do rats need?
As much as you can realistically give them. Set up a play pen or designate a rat hoodie. Carry them with you, bring them out, change their cage and play pen up frequently to keep them busy/stimulated... They will happily be out with you, any time you can bring them out. I do recommend a minimum of an hour playing/handling be it in the cage or out, but be mindful that these are highly intelligent social animals that will CRAVE your interaction!
Will my rats wee and poo on me?
Well, yes they will, unfortunately! Especially as babies, like every species they do need to learn bladder control/bathroom inhibition, so that will improve as they age. Especially if they're potty trained. Some rats will be better than others - some will very clearly wait until they're put back in their home to use the loo, and some don't seem to care as much. I have a designated rat hoodie so I don't get my good clothing all soiled up. You can use blankets on your lap, and if bringing them out it's good to cover your bed/couch with a waterproof shower curtain/blanket combo to spare your furniture and good blankets! If it's any consolation, rat wee is not that offensive in smell and washes out of clothing very easily!!
Can I toilet train my rats?
Yes rats can be potty trained, at least to some degree. Statistically bucks are more difficult to train as they're lazier and tend to be more like, "Meh, gotta do my thing, here works!" where does are a bit more conscientious of cleanliness. To train them, every single day you must pick their poops out of the main bedding and put into the litter pan. Put the litter pan in their favourite poo corner, and make sure the litter you choose is different from their main substrate. With diligence (a couple weeks or more!) they will learn to poop in their pan. Pee is a bit tougher. They pee to mark, so it's best to give them something to mark. A round, flat fist-sized rock IN the litter pan will do nicely. Once one pees on it, it becomes a point of interest to everyone else. It won't work 100% but it will help with the big pee puddles around the cage. Again, does take more easily to this, but it certainly can work with bucks too. It's unlikely your rat(s) will ever be completely litter trained, but even 50% is better than nothing!